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    How to use Your Pop-up Flash to Capture Action

    February 9th, 2007 • Bookmark on | del.icio.us | Digg It | Reddit
    BY GARY BUNN

    To get the most out of your in-camera flash, it’s best to understand its limitations. The main problem with a built-in flash is that it lacks power, so it won’t illuminate subject matter that’s a long way from the camera. Another restriction is that it’s not directional, which can make the light emitted from it harsh and flat. A further problem is that its position on the camera near the lens can produce an unwanted red-eye effect when capturing portrait images.

    Most digital SLRs have an integrated pop-up flash. What’s great about them is that they’re a very convenient source of light: you don’t have to carry around a large flashgun, and it cuts down the size and weight of your camera set-up. Another wonderful point to note is that they generally give good results when used properly, and are fully integrated with your camera’s internal metering system. They’re also an excellent way to experience creative flash possibilities before investing in an external flashgun.

     

    The technique often referred to as ‘flash and blur’ can throw up some stunning results and have you on track to becoming an action photography virtuoso. Flash and blur does exactly what it says on the tin. The idea is to get close, pan with the action (moving with the subject and following it as you shoot) using a slow shutter speed and press the shutter release/trigger the flash at the peak of the action. The flash freezes the subject while the long shutter speed and moving camera combine to create blurred streaks in the background.

    It’s best to choose the correct subject matter to achieve top results for this technique. Outdoors, something like cycling or running races are easy to find and ideal for amateur or experienced photographers to attend because you can get close to the action — and the closer you are, the better the effect will be as you pan. It will also get your flash close enough to freeze the subject. Fit a wide-angle lens, such as a 20mm, and take spare batteries for those power-hungry flashes.

    Gary Bunn publishes Your-Digital-Photography.com.

    Posted in Lighting, Technique |

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